Making Traditional Cider

The following discussion is illustrated with photos from John Batcheldor's cider farm. For further details and photos see next page. All photos are copyright Steve Collins 2002 and used by kind permission of JB himself!

The apples used in cider making are distinguishable from both cooking and eating apples (although the use of these is traditional in Kent, Norfolk and Suffolk) and have wonderful names like "Kingston Black" or "Broxwood Foxwhelp".The fruit is usually ready from the beginning of September. Many producers leave the apples on the trees until some or all drop off - bruising is actually beneficial since it starts the enzymic breakdown of the apples. Often the baskets of apples are stored for a few days to encourage this breakdown.

The apples are then milled (crushed into a pulp).

The pulp is very mushy and must be wrapped and sealed before pressing. Some producers, especially in Somerset, still press their apples through straw. In Herefordshire, even horse hair was used. Nowadays, sacking or artificial fibre materials may be used.

Although most producers now use large hydraulic presses, some small cider makers still use the old, wooden presses worked by hand (see our article on JB)

The extracted juice is collected in vats where fermentation takes place. Traditionally, these were oak barrels but they were difficult to keep clean, nowadays, plastic or stainless steel tanks are more likely to be used.

The natural yeasts in the apples set to work and the process can take several months.

Some producers now kill off the natural yeasts on the apple skins and add a wine yeast for consistency.

Ciders tend to ferment right out and are naturally dry. Commercial producers may add sugar or other sweeteners after fermentation to achieve "sweet" cider" but traditional makers resort to a process called "keeving", which is simply the skimming off of the yeast crust before the cider has fermented right out to dryness, resulting in a naturally sweeter product (e.g. JB Medium).

In poor yielding years, sugar may be added at fermentation, enabling the cider to reach higher alcohol strengths. Commercially this may be as much as 14% alcohol by volume, and then water is added to dilute it down to a suitable strength but most traditional producers frown on such practices which will reduce the flavour and individuality of the product.

Once fermented, the raw cider is then transferred to vats for maturation. Juices are often blended with other older juices to add character.

Truly traditional cider making stops here and the cider is ready to serve, usually in its cloudy form.

Serving Traditional Ciders

Depending on facilities and turnover in the pub, cider is usually served from a polypin or similar container on or behind the bar.

National brands are usually served through a traditional beer engine with a handpump.

Unfortunately, it is not safe to assume that a handpump (or something that looks like one) on the bar means that traditional cider is available.

Marketing departments of big cider producers, like those of big brewer are desperate to give draught cider a traditional image, as this is seen to increase sales and give the product premium status.

BEWARE OF CIDER SERVED THROUGH WHAT LOOKS LIKE A TRADITIONAL HANDPUMP - IT MAY NOT BE THE REAL THING.

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